Khandagiri And Udayagiri Caves: The Attractions Of Odisha

Historical Facts:

In the city of Bhubaneswar, well known as a city of temples, there are two hills rising amidst the wide flatlands. Nestled in these hills of Udayagiri and Khandagiri are 33 caves that are unique as they are among the earliest Jain rock-cut shelters.

These two hills riddled with rock-cut shelters are 6 kilometres west of the city centre. Khandagiri is topped with a fine temple. Many of the caves are ornately carved and thought to have been chiselled out for Jain ascetics.
The caves at Udayagiri and Khandagiri were excavated by King Kharavela (2nd – 1st century BCE) of the Mahamegavahana dynasty, which ruled the ancient kingdom of Kalinga (modern-day Odisha state) from 2nd century BCE to 5th century CE.

The caves are so small that a person can’t stand straight. This is in keeping with Jainism’s insistence on great austerity which is clearly reflected in the architecture here. Some of the caves rebuilt during the medieval period between 7th-11th CE are larger.

The caves of Udayagiri(Hill of Sunrise) and Khandagiri(Broken Hills) command a unique position in the field of history, rock-cut architecture, and religion. At present all caves have been numbered in order to avoid any confusion. The largest and most beautiful Rani Gumpha (Queens Cave) is a double-storey. Hathi Gumpha (Elephant Cave) is notable for the carvings of six vigorous elephants. Ganesha Gumpah takes its name from the figure of Ganesha carved on the back of its cell.

Notable other Caves:

Tiger Cave, Jaya Vijaya Cave, Alakapuri Cave, etc. Notable Caves in Khandagiri Caves include Parrot Cave (Tatowa Gumpha) – parrots carved on the arches of their doorways and Snake Cave – twin serpents on the door arches. At the top of the hill, one can notice the 18th century Jain Temple dedicated to Jain Monk Rishabnath.

The caves of Udayagiri and Khandagiri called lena or leṇa in the inscriptions. The Caves, formerly called Kattaka Caves or Cuttack caves, are partly natural and partly artificial caves of archaeological, historical, and religious importance near the city of Bhubaneswar in Odisha, India. The caves are situated on two adjacent hills, Udayagiri and Khandagiri, mentioned as Kumari Parvata in the Hathigumpha inscription. They have a number of finely and ornately carved caves built during the 1st century BCE. It is believed that most of these caves were carved out as residential blocks for Jaina monks during the reign of King Kharavela. Udayagiri means ‘Hill of Sunrise’ and has 18 caves while Khandagiri has 15 caves.

The caves built on the Kumari mountain range were built for the Jain monks and offered them a place to stay and meditate. Out of the one hundred and seventeen caves that were built originally only thirty-three survive to this day.

A General Overview of the Caves :

The Udayagiri hills fall on your right side when you enter into this area from Bhubaneswar. Compared to Khandagiri, Udayagiri offers more beautiful and better-maintained cave shrines. There are a total of 18 caves in Udayagiri. The Archeological Survey of India (ASI) is in charge of the Udaygiri caves and it’s a ticketed monument. ASI has listed Udayagiri and Khandagiri Caves in the list of “Must See” Indian Heritage. The major attractions of the Udaygiri caves are :

1. Rani Gumpha (Cave of the Queen)
2. Bajaghara Gumpha
3. Chota Hati Gumpha
4. Alakapuri Gumpha
5. Jaya Vijaya Gumpha
6. Panasa Gumpha
7. Thakurani Gumpha
8. Patalapuri Gumpha
9. Mancapuri and Swargapuri Gumpha
10.Ganesha Gumpha
11.Jambesvara Gumpha
12.Vyaghra Gumpha
13.Sarpa Gumpha
14.Hati Gumpha
15.Dhanaghara Gumpha
16.Haridasa Gumpha
17.Jagannatha Gumpha
18.Rasui Gumpha

The Khandagiri hills fall on your left side when you enter into this area from Bhubaneswar. There are 15 caves in Khandagiri. These caves were renovated during the reign of Uddyotakeshari of the Somavamshi dynasty. The caves located at the Khandagiri hills don’t come under the purview of the ASI. The major caves of Khandagiri are :

1. Tatowa Gumpha
2. Ananta Gumpha
3. Tentuli Gumpha
4. Khandagiri Gumpha
5. Dhyana Gumpha
6. Navamuni Gumpha
7. Barabhuji Gumpha
8. Trusala Gumpha
9. Ambika Gumpha
10.Lalatendu Keshari Gumpha

Caves 11, 12, 13, and 15 are unnamed. Cave 14 is very simple and called as Ekadasi Gumpha.

The Twin Caves: Hidden Jewels of Bhubaneswar

The most extraordinary achievement of these beautifully carved caves is that each cave and sculpture was painstakingly carved by hand using basic tools. The architecture and exquisite carving are of the top drawer. The carvings drew references from mythology and history. One of the most poignant sections of carving is the depiction of the Kalinga War, where women and teenagers are depicted fighting to save their motherland from Ashoka’s army.

Visiting these two caves is one of the most adventurous and thrilling things to do in Bhubaneswar. The hills are situated high up so you gotta make the climb. Short of perfect for nature lovers. This place requires you to climb up and gives a short hiking experience. And, the view of the city from the top of the hill is totally worth the climbing effort. There are quick-time snacks and also a lot of options available for local food nearby. In fact, you can take your food along with you and have a sort of picnic. This is often crowded with all sorts of age groups. Across the road, Khandagiri offers fine views over Bhubaneswar from its summit. The steep path splits about one-third of the way up the hill.

Buses don’t go to the caves, but bus 801 runs to the nearby Baramunda bus stand. I visited these serene caves along with my family in a fine time of December, which is perfect weather for hiking. We were staying in Hotel Ginger (which is 7.3 kms from the caves) and booked an Uber Car ride for both the arrival and the return. The journey took hardly 30 minutes. We just climbed down from the hill and waited for our Uber ride to arrive by the road. Also, a return autorickshaw ride from Master Canteen shouldn’t cost much more than ₹350, including waiting time.

It is best to visit during winter as the city weather remains hot and humid during summertime. A nice place to visit if you have that stamina to go up & upstairs. It provides a bird’s eye view of the whole city from top. Sometimes monkeys may suddenly jump upon you & stay like that for some moments till they have eaten their bananas offered by their trainer. My father let a monkey jump and sit on his shoulders and offered him biscuits by giving 10 rupees to its master. Trust me it was something new for us and worth watching. They just act like money-maker for their masters; it is a feeling of awe and amusement at the same time. But, don’t get scared.

If you come to Bhubaneswar don’t forget this place. As I’ve mentioned before, you can get a chance ta see the whole Bhubaneswar city from here. The beauty of this historical place is beyond aesthetics. The over two thousand years old Udayagiri and Khandagiri Caves offer fine examples of the glorious sculpture of an era older than the one in which Ellora caves were carved out. So, definitely try to visit khandagiri at least once in your lifetime.

Entry Ticket:

Entry fee for Citizens of India and visitors of SAARC (Bangladesh, Nepal, Bhutan, Sri Lanka, Pakistan, Maldives and Afghanistan) and BIMSTEC Countries (Bangladesh, Nepal, Bhutan, Sri Lanka, Thailand and Myanmar) – Rs. 25 per head and for each foreigner is Rs. 300 and free entry for children below 15 years.

Visiting Time:

It’s all-time open except for the Jain Festivals. Prefer the months of winter to enjoy the trip.

Caution:

Beware of Langoor and Monkeys.

How to reach:

Many buses and auto Rickshaws go to Udayagiri and Khandagiri. Auto Rickshaws charge around 100 wherein buses cost around Rs 15. You can book Uber and Ola rides too.